Exterior Paint by Surface: Wood, Brick, and Aluminum

Modern exterior coatings are overwhelmingly 100% acrylic latex, prized for flexibility — they expand and contract with the surface through temperature swings, which is exactly what Michigan demands. Oil-based products still appear on certain primers and high-wear trim, but they grow brittle and chalk over time. Primer is not optional on bare or repaired areas: it is the bonding layer that locks the finish to the substrate and seals stains. Bare wood, fresh repairs, and chalky aluminum all need the right primer before color, and skipping it is a top cause of early failure.

Wood siding and trim need a flexible acrylic over a quality primer, with every gap caulked, since wood moves and water is the enemy. Aluminum siding must be cleaned and de-chalked, then primed with a bonding primer so the acrylic topcoat adheres to the slick metal. Brick requires a breathable masonry or elastomeric coating that lets moisture escape rather than trapping it behind the paint — the wrong product spalls brick over time. Each surface is its own job, which is why a generalist spraying one product on everything is a warning sign.

Product is only half the equation — application conditions decide whether it cures. Exterior paint needs daytime temperatures consistently above its minimum (commonly around 50°F, though low-temp formulas extend that), low enough humidity to dry, and a dry stretch afterward. That practically means late spring through early fall in Metro Detroit. Painting too cold, too humid, or just ahead of rain leads to poor adhesion and peeling no matter how good the paint is, so the timing matters as much as the can.